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Apr

4

Weekend, April 4-5 – 1908 University Life: A Young Woman’s Story

By admin

Mabel Allen’s 1908 Experiences

at

Syracuse University

Mabel Allen’s 1908 Arts Experiences at Syracuse University

February 28, 2026 by Phil Brown 

Mabel Allen

Alice Mabel Allen (1886-1976) grew up in the village of Adams in Jefferson County. In 1908,  while attending Syracuse University Mabel, as she was known, kept a diary which New York Almanack is publishing each week.

Monday, February 24

Lu and I slept in Grace’s room last night as Cassie had gone home. Fuzzie slept with Lillian. I studied only a few minutes before breakfast but was all right for math as Mr. Pratt cut. Helen Beattie came back and studied Trig and Latin. At four walked with Fuzzie. She afterwards took me in for chocolate.

To-night Lu and I went to recital given by Mr. Mahr, cellist, and Mlle. Hinchey-Harden, vocalist. It was very classical yet I enjoyed it. Started report on part of Venn in Return of the Native.

Tuesday, February 25

After English went down and studied trig with Helen Beattie. Recited in Elocution this P.M. — Robert of Sicily. Came home and found letter from Edna with one from Dora [her older sisters] enclosed.

After dinner, Helen Beattie came. Telephoned [?see insert] to come over as it was her twenty-second birthday. Mine comes soon and I would ward it off for the restlessness each year brings. We went over to Hill’s for hot chocolate and I then walked a piece with her. After tea Lu and I walked. I wentdownstairs and watched the girls get ready for the carnival; then came up and studied until the lights went out.

Wednesday, February 26

In Trig I was called on for some angles which I guessed at and then forgot what I said before I could substitute. Received invitation from Jessie Torrey to attend graduation of nurses from St. Luke’s March 2. From 11 to 12 studied at Helen Beattie’s. Isabel made fudge down in Christine’s room. Leta and I made a raid on rooms for alcohol and at last I bought some of Miss Adams. After supper I went with Lu down to the Boys’ Club on Willow St. There were only a few boys there and only one came into the library. Am going to sleep with Lu until Harriet comes. She has been to a baby party.

Thursday, February 27

Katherine Arnold came home with me after Roman Hist and I persuaded her to stay to dinner. After she left I wrote my report and finished it to-night. Took a warm bath and then wrote theme for Eng. III. Studied well for me — the whole evening until the lights went out. To-day we had ice-cream and suet pudding “both at once.”

Friday, February 28

Studied math early and for once made a decent recitation. Helen Beattie came back and we studied 1 hour in Harriet’s room. Letter from mother. Says they are having a hardwood floor laid in the dining room. After Latin went over to see Katherine. She seemed much stronger.

Found that she never received the pot of daffodils I had ordered sent. Went over to the library and read the [?see insert] of The Wayfarers. To-night wrote up Roman Hist notes in Lu’s room. Jean came in. Went to sleep in there. Three of girls have gone home.

Saturday, February 29

Crawled into bed with Harriet and Lu, in spite of Harriet’s neuralgia. After breakfast studied Shakespeare. Straightened credits out with the registrar as I was not catalogued with advanced standing. Eng. VIII conference with Prof. Eaton. Came back and swept and dusted the room. After dinner Lu and I walked and then went downstreet. Bought eatables for a spread; blue and white handkerchief and picture frame. Walked both ways. Late to-night we had a spread in Lu’s room; cocoa and peanut butter sandwiches.

Professor H.A. Eaton

Sunday, March 1

After breakfast, washed fudge, or rather, spread dishes. Went to St. Mary’s Cathedral with Lillian, Harriet and Lu. Lenten regulations were read and I was much interested to hear them. Commenced to storm just after we reached home.

Read Richard Feverell after dinner. Collected material for Harriet to make fudge; took bath and put on blue waist for lunch. Mrs. Campbell joined us in singing afterwards. Miss Stevenson told our fortunes. Wrote letters to-night to the people [her parents] and Edna [her older sister].

Mabel Allen’s 1908 Diary: Math Trouble & A Barn Dance

March 7, 2026 by Phil Brown 

Alice Mabel Allen (1886-1976) grew up in the village of Adams in Jefferson County. In 1908,  while attending Syracuse University Mabel, as she was known, kept a diary which New York Almanack is publishing each week.

Monday, March 9

Called on in math and managed to make a recitation after much hesitation. Then came home to study. Had a long letter from Betty who is doing Y.W.C.A. work in Sacramento. After dinner Lu, Harriet and I finished the last orange. Went in Isabel’s room after Latin and she told me all about her travels home. Finished Richard Feverel. Lu and I went down to drugstore and bakery. Mailed white goods to mother and bought brown bread. Came back and found Jessie Barnes here. She is much thinner but hopes to come back after sanitarium treatment.

Tuesday, March 10

Celebrated with coffee and doughnuts this morning. Jean brot my mail up to Shakespeare class; three letters from Edna, Rollin and Earl Dunmore. Studied math at Helen’s. In elocution had to read [????]. After dinner Helen came and we tried to study math and Roman History but could not do either to advantage. Went up to Liberal Arts after tickets for Harvard concert. Miss Minch stopped for me to go down to hear Dr. Hearst speak on Miracles. I was eager to go, but he was not satisfactory, very. Walked home with her and discussed the Doll’s House. Lu & I walked down to drugstore after tea. Julia Marlow in As You Like It to-night.

Wednesday, March 11

Recited in math. I always want to put this down as a red letter day when I happen to be called on for something I know. Helen came back with me. After Latin went over to library and studied on Roman History until after six. Studied math in the evening. Harriet bought a plateful of cookies from Mrs. Campbell. They were not very good. Bea made some tea and I went down and drank some after lights went out. It was good but it kept me awake until after one. Bea and Christine were honored with a private interview because they talk across the way with one of the boys. Lillian is waiting on table in Ethel’s place. I cannot decide about answering the letter. Cassie pledged Alpha Gamma Delta.

Thursday, March 12

No Journal. Roman history quiz. Walked down after dinner a piece with Lu and Harriet who is going to the dentist’s. Stopped in to see Leta. Wrote in her birthday book. Helen came over to study for a math quiz. Afterwards went down in Fuzzie’s room and we lay on bed and talked. Bea came in asked us in to have some of her box; apples and cookies. After supper walked with Lu and Harriet. Studied Latin in Jean’s room. Ethel has gone home. Going to bed early as the tea last night kept me awake. Katherine went home yesterday.

Friday, March 13

Math quiz this morning but I got most terribly mixed. Came back and read the Journal. Mr. Smith cut English. Harriet had a fruit cake sent to her. Isabel made some good nut fudge. Went over to library to read for Shakespeare. Walked home with Miss Briggs with Fuzzie and Christine. After supper we danced and tried the Barn Dance. Went up to Liberal Arts with Lillian and climbed thru window into History seminar. Made fudge–under protestation.

Saturday, March 14

Letter from Father with check for $50 enclosed. He is troubled with rheumatism and was going up to see Dr. White. Studied or at least tried to study Trig down at Helen Beattie’s. Came home and swept the room. Walked with Lu after dinner and then walked downstreet with Jean, Grace Gatchell and Harriet. Took my black skirt to tailor to be mended. I tore it this morning making the bed. Went with the girls to the dentist. Saw [????] at the Five and Ten. Went over and left a note for Myrtle Heath to stay with me to-night. Sewed and started linen collar. Lillian gone away to-night.

Sunday, March 15

Myrtle staid for some time after breakfast and we had music in the parlor. Undressed to take a bath but had to wait for the water to heat. Wrote home and, later, to Mary. Isabel went down after mail and brot me a letter from mother. Thundered and lightened after dinner. Walked down to Harvard concert with Harriet, Lillian and Lu and then went to Vespers. Rode home. After lunch Christine and I went down and popped corn over the furnace. Went in Lu and Harriet’s room to eat it. Have to study Trig to-night.

Mabel Allen in Syracuse, 1908: St. Patrick’s Parade, Dancing & Preaching

March 14, 2026 by Phil Brown 

Alice Mabel Allen (1886-1976) grew up in the village of Adams in Jefferson County. In 1908,  while attending Syracuse University Mabel, as she was known, kept a diary which New York Almanack is publishing each week.

Monday, March 16

Went down early in Fuzzie’s room to study math but there was no light so I crawled into bed with her until the light came on. Put on my new white shirt waist. Math quiz on identities and I flunked about every example. Helen Beattie came back with me to study. Bought some sugar for Isabel to make fudge. Went over to library to write report. In place of Latin, attended a lecture on Sicily by Mr. Emerson. Wrote to Rollin and a birthday letter to Alice. Studied in Lu’s room. The girls filled out my room. Have been to sleep but will write in report now.

Tuesday, March 17

Late for Trig and had to hand in a blank for the example as time was called. Mrs. Campbell’s clock is about 10 minutes slow. Had a letter from Edna [her sister]. Went down to Helen Beattie’s to study Trig and staid during elocution period as Mrs. Butler is ill. After dinner embroidered on linen collar Myrtle Heath gave me. Helen Beattie came and afterwards I walked downstreet with Jean and bought a pot of tulips for Rita Cooper who is ill at hospital. Saw the St. Patrick’s parade. To-night wrote English report on Richard Feverel. Is not all that satisfactory. For a wonder I studied during entire evening.

Wednesday, March 18

Staid for a conference after Trig. After Eng. went down to Helen’s and studied until 12:30. Dining room was full of men when I ate dinner and the silence was oppressive. In Latin Dr. Bushnell wore a Prince Albert coat. We wondered if he were going to a pink tea. Read Roman history and learned poetry until Lu came at 4:30 for me to go to Vespers. Dr. Coddington spoke on the one besetting sin of each individual. To-night we danced after supper and then studied. I went to sleep but now am wide awake.

Thursday, March 19

After Roman History, I started my long story. Went over to the library early with Lu and wrote most of the afternoon. Came back and studied Latin down in Fuzzie’s room until supper. Danced, finished my Latin and copied my theme until 12 by Mary’s candle.

Prince Albert in his frock coat.

Friday, March 20

Letter from mother telling of Uncle David’s death. The funeral is to be Saturday, but I decided not to go home. She said he died very quietly, as one goes to sleep. I wonder where Cousin Fannie will go. In Latin I had to recite the last verse of the poem. At four I went downstreet with Lu and bought some blue prints, some sandals and material for an underwaist. We bought some peanut candy to eat on the way home. We were quite late for supper. Lu and Harriet came in and I fixed up my Roman history note book. I slept with Lu and Harriet with Cassie as Grace went home.

Saturday, March 21

Alice Jenkin’s birthday. Did not get up until 7:00 and Lu and I came in to awaken Harriet and Cassie who had not heard the rising bell. Had a long letter from Jessie Torrey who has finished her training course and is going out for herself. Studied Latin in Lu’s room and then swept and dusted our room. After dinner cut out a corset cover by Harriet’s and sewed on it most of the afternoon. Also ironed and starched my white waist. The girls went downstreet and Lu bought me some lace. After supper we danced; Lillian and I went down after Florence Signeur to stay all night with Lillian. A beautiful starlight night. I made or started some fudge which Lu finished while I took a bath. Laura sleeping with Cassie to-night. She is down in Bea’s room and Harriet is in here studying by candlelight. Uncle David’s funeral was this afternoon.

Sunday, March 22

Lu and Harriet piled into bed early this morning with Cassie and me. We started about half past nine, the four of us, to hear Rev. Hugh Black at the Fourth Presbyterian. He is wonderful, perfectly wonderful. He is tremendously intense and magnetic in his personality. His theme was our lack of responsibility for consequences. His face was so sad. I could have cried when the service was over and I would have given worlds to have shaken him by the hand. This afternoon he spoke on the Hill. We walked home this morning and heard some song sparrows. To-night we heard the robins and it was so encouraging. Took off heavy underwear.

Mabel Allen’s 1908 Diary: Invitation to Junior Prom

March 28, 2026 by Phil Brown 

In 1908,  while attending Syracuse University, Alice Mabel Allen (1886-1976) kept a diary which is being published each week. In this week’s entries, a suitor visits Syracuse and invites Mabel to the junior prom at his college

Monday, March 30

Slept with Fuzzie in her room. After Helen and I studied math I went down in Fuzzie’s room and (studied math) darned stockings–slightly different. Came home from Latin and found a letter from Herbert Jenkins. Walked downstreet with Grace, Fuzzie, Cassie and Blanche McGelligott. My shoe rubbed and I was pretty tired before I reached home. Met some frat sisters of Cassie who asked us to go to the basketball to-night between juniors & senior women. Cassie would not say a word and I accepted conditionally. The position I did not like to-night.

Tuesday, March 31

After English stopped after [older sister] Edna’s letter and went down to study math with Helen. Recited on “Cuddle Doon” in elocution. Had an Eng. conference and Mr. Smith asked if I cared to run my long theme in the weekly. I told him I was willing. Went down to library with Lu and learned poetry. Afterwards went to Vespers. Had to ride home on account of the rain. After supper danced the barn dance with Christine. Edith and Mrs. Hannahs over to-night. Mrs. H. told me Harriet Nott was to leave town. Lu’s box came to-day and in it were rocks and oatmeal cookies. Saw Mabel Hammond Griggs this afternoon.

Wednesday, April 1

“April Fool.” Recited in math but could not do the traverse function example. Staid afterwards. Prepared for a quiz on poems in Eng. VIII but did not have it. Met Mrs. Hammaker on the Hill. After Latin studied Shakspere. Lillian went over and bought some cookies. Started a letter to Della when Edith phoned for me to meet her and her mother at the Sterling. We had a delicious lunch together and then Edith and I went to the train. We stopped on the way home to look at hats. Went with Lu to Sophomore contest for women. Hazel Thomas received 2nd prize. Poured when we came home, so I took my rain coat and rubbers up to Lillian who ushered. Rooms of Haven Hall girls were stacked. Fooled Lillian this A.M. telling her Fuzzie had been sick. 

Thursday, April 2

Cold, especially in this room. Read [Jefferson County] Journal after Roman history. After dinner studied Latin poems in Harriet’s room. Postal card from Rollin saying he would be here tomorrow. At three went down to see Mabel Hammond Griggs who is visiting on Genesee St. Blew and snowed hard. After supper, danced and then studied in Harriet’s room. Went to sleep.

Gaius Valerius Catullus

Friday, April 3

Called on in math, much to my surprise. Helen came down. Discussed Markeim in Eng. III. In Latin we are reading Catullus’ poems. After Latin, studied Shakspere. Put on my gray for supper. Rollin T., who is visiting at the ɸ 𝜅 ψ House called me up and asked me to go to the debate between Wesleyan and Syracuse. Syracuse won and I am so glad because Russel D. sent a card saying they expected to trim Syracuse. Wesleyan’s speakers were readier and smoother.

Saturday, April 4

Letter from mother. Dr. Carter in Eng. read Sheridan’s play by [about?] Mr. Puff, an excellent satire on Shakspere’s dramatic style. Swept the room and studied Latin with Fuzzie. After dinner Rollin came and we walked over to see Rosina and Mr. Scoville. Rosina has a very pleasant home and a dear daughter. On the way home, Rollin asked me for the Junior Prom in May. After supper Lu and I walked. Rollin came over to-night, but I had to make peace with Mrs. C. because it was not calling night. Fooled upstairs.

Sunday, April 5

Of course I awoke at about 6 this morning. Got in bed with Harriet and Lillian went down with Mary and Clara and raised “rough house.” Walked to church with Rollin to Park Presbyterian. After dinner Cassie, Harriet, Lu, Miss Sanford and Helen Beattie and I went down to the Harvard concert. The orchestra played Schubert’s Unfinished Symphony which was fine. Went to Vespers, four of us, and had to ride home as it was raining. Wrote home, to Bina Legg and Herbert & now am going to bed.

Presenting: Conversations in City History

Monday, April 13, 2026, 6:30 pm “Too Good to Get Married: The Life and Photographs of Miss Alice Austen” Author Bonnie Yochelson will discuss with moderator Judith Berdy about how a woman who grew up in the Gilded Age, when the term “lesbian” did not yet exist, challenged the conservative ideals of Staten Island high society. She will explain, as does her book, the role of photography in Alice Austen’s journey of self discovery, embrace of feminism and involvement in a loving lesbian partnership.

Monday, May 11, 2026, 6:30 pm “Rural County, Urban Borough: A History of Queens” When preservationist and author Jeffrey A. Kroessler passed away in 2023, his wife, architect Laura Heim, selected the images for his book and saw it through publication. She has generously agreed to be interviewed on this seminal historical work that charts how politics, industry, transportation, government and real estate interests all shaped New York’s borough of extraordinary ethnic, religious and linguistic diversity.

Monday, June 8, 2026, 6:30 pm “The Killing Fields of East New York” Author Stacy Horn (also writer of “Damnation Island,” about 19th-century Blackwell’s Island) has chronicled how the subprime mortgage scandal of the 1970s and a long history of white-collar crime slowly destroyed the Brooklyn neighborhood of East New York. She will share her compelling investigative journalism in a conversation about the area’s fair housing, race, violence and misplaced city priorities.

JUST ADDED:
Monday, September 14, 2026, 6:30 pm “Louis I. Kahn The Last Notebook
Edited By Sue Ann Kahn  An intimate record of Kahn’s musings on design, coupled with preparatory drawings of his monumental last project

Published in honor of the 50th anniversary of his death in March 1974, this two-volume set contains a facsimile of the notebook in which Louis Kahn drew and wrote during his last year of life, alongside a second volume of scholarly commentary and transliterations of his musings. Anchored by a magnificent set of preparatory drawings for his monument to Franklin Roosevelt in New York City, the notebook provides an intimate glimpse into private sketches of Kahn’s final projects and his poetic reflections on thematic preoccupations, such as “Silence to Light,” “Form and Design,” “Society of Rooms” and “Desire to Express.” Each volume is in a vellum sleeve and both are housed together in a transparent slipcase.
Born in Estonia, Louis Kahn (1901-74) immigrated with his family to Philadelphia when he was four years old. Kahn received Beaux-Arts training at the University of Pennsylvania, under the French-educated Paul Philippe Cret, and then adopted his own idiosyncratic modernism, which would engender the heterogeneous “Philadelphia school.” His architectural career did not take off until later in life; he attained his first major commission to design Yale University’s Art Gallery in 1951. Upon its completion, Kahn received many international commissions, and he developed a signature style that was monumental, monolithic and transparent in its functionality. He was awarded the AIA Gold Medal and the RIBA Gold Medal.

THE ROOSEVELT ISLAND HISTORICAL SOCIETY 

6:30 p.m. 

504 Main Street

We had a tech error yesterdayAbove are the two volumes of “The Last Notebook”.

Photo Judith Berdy

 NEW YORK ALMANACK

All image are copyrighted (c) Roosevelt Island Historical Society unless otherwise indicated
THIS PUBLICATION FUNDED BY DISCRETIONARY FUNDS FROM CITY COUNCIL MEMBER JULIE MENIN & ROOSEVELT ISLAND OPERATING CORPORATION PUBLIC PURPOSE FUNDS.

Copyright © 2026 Roosevelt Island Historical Society, All rights reserved.Our mailing address is:
rooseveltislandhistory@gmail.com

Apr

2

Thursday, April 2, 2026 – Fashion’s Feathered History: From Plumes to Fans

By admin

The Plume Boom:

Feathers, Fans, Funerals,

Fashion & Filth

The Plume Boom: Feathers, Fans, Funerals, Fashion & Filth

April 1, 2026 by Jaap Harskamp

Economic history is a tale of bubbles and booms in which assets such as commodities, land, or stocks, quickly inflate in price above their intrinsic value. Such sudden movements, driven by greedy investors and speculative hype, are invariably followed by a bust. Loss of confidence causes a collapse in prices, resulting in a crash of “panic selling.”

There are many such examples, most of them well-documented. Tulip-mania in the Dutch Republic during the 1630s was the first real financial bubble. Then there were the Mississippi and South Sea Bubbles (1720), both followed by a spectacular crash. More recently, we have seen the Dotcom Bubble, driven by mad speculation in internet-based stock.

While the assets may change over time, from tulips to technology, the factors of greed and fear are the ever-present psychological drivers of economic upheavals. Of all the bubbles known to historians, the “Plume Boom” is one of the more obscure tales.

Feather & Fan

Feather fans in Chinese culture date back to ancient times. The fan’s original use was functional as a cooling tool in the heat. The addition of bird feathers brought a level of elegance. Dignitaries began to carry feather fans as a sign of rank and status.

Once introduced to Japan from China, fans became part of the nation’s culture. They appeared in stage performances, helping to create visual and auditory effects (the fluttering of wings or the swaying of trees) to heighten the dramatic impact.

Feather fans arrived in Europe in the sixteenth century through expanding contacts with China and Japan. These early fans, made of ostrich or peacock feathers, were regarded for their exotic beauty and restricted to Royalty and aristocracy.

In England, they became fashionable during the Elizabethan era. In most painted portraits of Queen Elizabeth I, she holds a “fixed” fan (a fine handle with a variation of feathers). Originating in Japan, folding fans were developed later; by the end of the century, they had superseded fixed fans.

During the Renaissance and Baroque periods, feather fans enhanced the non-verbal theatrics of court life. A fan relayed secret messages on a “language” of over two dozen gestures (leaflets to master the code were available).

Holding it to cover one’s face showed shyness, fanning oneself vigorously signaled irritation. Fans were used to flirt or show contempt; their color was imbued with significance. White symbolized purity; red stood for passion; black represented mourning.

France was the center of éventaillistes (fan makers and designers) during the seventeenth century, and the craft involved Huguenot specialists. Following the 1685 Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, many Protestant artisans fled the country, taking their skills of silk weaving and other decorative arts to England and elsewhere.

Refugees boosted high-quality fan making in Spitalfields, East London, and turned the craft into a thriving enterprise of family-run firms. François (Francis) Chassereau and his descendants were prominent fan makers, running The Fan & Crown in Hanover Street, Long Acre, throughout the eighteenth century.

Funerals, Fashion & Feathers

In the sixteenth century, men used feathers to symbolize status and rank, notably in court attire and military regalia. Ostrich feathers adorned cavalier hats and military plumes. By the 1660s, French courtiers wore small hats adorned with feathers.

Military regiments used them too. The Scottish Highland Infantry worn a “feather bonnet” from about 1763 until the outbreak of World War One (now mostly worn by pipers in regimental bands). In the late Victorian era elaborate “fluffy” plumes were in vogue. They became an essential part of lavish funeral processions.

At the funeral of Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington, in September 1852, twelve black horses pulled a massive hearse, each sporting a plume of black ostrich feathers.

Their inclusion in the parade determined Victorian funereal customs. English mourning rituals were copied in the United States with the death of Abraham Lincoln.

After lying in state at both the White House and the Capitol, the President’s body was returned to his native Springfield, Illinois. The funeral train stopped in eleven cities along the way (including Albany).

The procession in New York City on April 25, 1865, was a massive event, drawing some one million people. The procession moved up Broadway to Union Square and then to the Hudson River Railroad Depot, featuring sixteen grey horses carrying large ostrich plumes pulling the hearse.

The fashion trade was by far the biggest market for ostrich feathers. In the 1860s the French elite began wearing colored feathers on hats, dresses, jackets, and boas. Where Paris went, the world followed and soon the demand for ostrich feathers outstripped supply.

Up until that time, ostrich feathers sold on the London market were plucked from wild birds hunted in South Africa and across the Sahara (until the “Arabian” ostrich was driven to extinction by excessive hunting). Live plucking was a particularly cruel process.

Pushed by the demand for feathers, farmers at the Cape began to domesticate the ostrich, plucking the bird twice a year without harming it. Experiments began in the Oudtshoorn region.

The invention in 1869 of incubators to hatch chicks was a breakthrough and the number of specialized farms expanded rapidly. By the 1880s ostrich feathers had become South Africa’s fourth largest export after gold, diamonds, and wool. Some traders built opulent properties, known as “feather palaces.”

London became the focus of the feather market. Huge crates would arrive each week from the Cape in addition to a smaller number of the Arabian subspecies. Warehouses owned by the East India Company at Cutler Street and Billiter Street, East London, displayed the wares for merchants to inspect before being auctioned in sale rooms at Mincing Lane. Feathers were big business.

Status & Elegance

In December 1882, a herd of twenty-two ostriches were sailed into New York Harbor, having arrived from Cape Town.

These creatures were the sole survivors of two hundred birds that had been sent to sea by Charles Sketchley, a South African ostrich exporter who had decided to expand his operations into America, thus avoiding the cost of shipping and skip the twenty percent duty charged on foreign feathers.

Once disembarked, the birds were loaded on a train destined for Anaheim where Sketchley had founded the California Ostrich-Farming Company, the nation’s first farm of its kind.

He did attract attention. The farm became a national curiosity, drawing journalistic reports in The New York TimesHarper’s Weekly, and Scientific American. Competitors rushed to set up their own farms throughout the southwest.

The economic future was an ostrich. The plume trade thrived as it stopped the slaughter of wild birds that had sparked the creation of the Audubon Society and the eventual passage of the 1918 Migratory Bird Treaty.

Ostrich feathers represented status and elegance in American society. By the 1890s, stylish women wore hats, boas and fans adorned with elaborate feathers. Dyeing them had become an art form.

Manuals such as Alexander Paul’s The Practical Ostrich Feather Dyer (1888) set out methods for creating an extraordinary variety of colors including lemon, salmon, bronze, lavender, and olive, as well as more exotic tints such as gendarme blue, Russian green, Bismarck brown, terracotta, or seafoam, transforming natural feathers into fashion items.

The Plume Boom did not last as fashions changed. By the time of World War One, the price of ostrich feathers had plummeted, the market crashed, most farms went bust, but the ostrich would make a return in Montmartre and on Broadway in the post-war era.

Fan Dancers

Once the Great War was behind them, Parisians rebounded in a carnival of hedonism, an era referred to the années folles (crazy years). The period coincided with an influx of young Americans who embraced the city’s permissive morality and creative energy.

Feather fans became symbolic of those flamboyant years, blending luxury with the theatrical style of the flapper generation. Women carried fans attending jazz clubs, cabarets, or evening parties.

Fashion, feathers, and performance were in interlinked. So-called “fan dancers” used them as a means of revealing and concealing (hide-and-seek) body parts during their routines.

Parisian houses set the trend and manufactured refined and dramatically sized fans. Founded in 1827, Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy had revived the fashion after the French Revolution, becoming a supplier to European Royalty, including Queen Victoria.

Known in the 1920s for its Art Nouveau designs and creative collaboration with artists, the firm re-established its prime place in the industry.

On September 15, 1925, young Josephine Baker joined twenty-five black performers (thirteen dancers, twelve musicians) who set to sail for Cherbourg on Cunard’s SS Berengaria. Rehearsals for their Revue Nègre took place during the crossing.

The show opened at the Champs-Élysées on October 2nd and was a smash hit. Dancing with Senegalese partner Joe Alex, she performed a “Danse Sauvage” (wild dance) in which both performers were scantily clad with ostrich feathers and beads.

Dancers like Los Angeles-born Faith Bacon (1910-1956), who had begun her career in Paris, used large white plumed fans for her dramatic performances. Having returned to New York late in the decade, she appeared on Broadway in July 1930 as a “principal nude” in Earl Carroll’s revue Vanities.

The latter’s indifference to legal boundaries landed him in court several times on charges of public indecency which offered added publicity to his theater at 753 Seventh Avenue. The Feather Fan became synonymous with Broadway’s art of the burlesque.

As the moral climate changed, censorship in the late 1930s forced these “naughty” shows off stage.

While Manhattan stayed a hub of cultural innovation, the prevailing mood was one of anxiety and caution which filtered through to stage and screen productions. Even Broadway stuck to a restrictive moral code that called for traditional values, conservative policies, and a regime of law and order.

The immorality of feather fans was no longer tolerated. By 1937, Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia had ordered the closure of major burlesque houses, classifying them as “filth.” It finished off the feather fever.

Presenting: Conversations in City History

Monday, April 13, 2026, 6:30 pm “Too Good to Get Married: The Life and Photographs of Miss Alice Austen” Author Bonnie Yochelson will discuss with moderator Judith Berdy about how a woman who grew up in the Gilded Age, when the term “lesbian” did not yet exist, challenged the conservative ideals of Staten Island high society. She will explain, as does her book, the role of photography in Alice Austen’s journey of self discovery, embrace of feminism and involvement in a loving lesbian partnership.

Monday, May 11, 2026, 6:30 pm “Rural County, Urban Borough: A History of Queens” When preservationist and author Jeffrey A. Kroessler passed away in 2023, his wife, architect Laura Heim, selected the images for his book and saw it through publication. She has generously agreed to be interviewed on this seminal historical work that charts how politics, industry, transportation, government and real estate interests all shaped New York’s borough of extraordinary ethnic, religious and linguistic diversity.

Monday, June 8, 2026, 6:30 pm “The Killing Fields of East New York” Author Stacy Horn (also writer of “Damnation Island,” about 19th-century Blackwell’s Island) has chronicled how the subprime mortgage scandal of the 1970s and a long history of white-collar crime slowly destroyed the Brooklyn neighborhood of East New York. She will share her compelling investigative journalism in a conversation about the area’s fair housing, race, violence and misplaced city priorities.

JUST ADDED:
Monday, September 14, 2026, 6:30 pm “Louis I. Kahn The Last Notebook
Edited By Sue Ann Kahn  An intimate record of Kahn’s musings on design, coupled with preparatory drawings of his monumental last project

Published in honor of the 50th anniversary of his death in March 1974, this two-volume set contains a facsimile of the notebook in which Louis Kahn drew and wrote during his last year of life, alongside a second volume of scholarly commentary and transliterations of his musings. Anchored by a magnificent set of preparatory drawings for his monument to Franklin Roosevelt in New York City, the notebook provides an intimate glimpse into private sketches of Kahn’s final projects and his poetic reflections on thematic preoccupations, such as “Silence to Light,” “Form and Design,” “Society of Rooms” and “Desire to Express.” Each volume is in a vellum sleeve and both are housed together in a transparent slipcase.
Born in Estonia, Louis Kahn (1901-74) immigrated with his family to Philadelphia when he was four years old. Kahn received Beaux-Arts training at the University of Pennsylvania, under the French-educated Paul Philippe Cret, and then adopted his own idiosyncratic modernism, which would engender the heterogeneous “Philadelphia school.” His architectural career did not take off until later in life; he attained his first major commission to design Yale University’s Art Gallery in 1951. Upon its completion, Kahn received many international commissions, and he developed a signature style that was monumental, monolithic and transparent in its functionality. He was awarded the AIA Gold Medal and the RIBA Gold Medal.

 THE ROOSEVELT ISLAND HISTORICAL SOCIETY

6:30 p.m. 

504 Main Street

We had a tech error yesterdayAbove are the two volumes of “The Last Notebook”.

Photo Judith Berdy

 NEW YORK ALMANACK
Illustrations, from above: Unknown artist, Portrait of the featherworker Johann Wurmbein, Nuremberg, 1667 (Stadtbibliothek im Bildungscampus Nürnberg); Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger, “Queen Elizabeth I,” ca. 1592 (National Portrait Gallery, London); William Lockhart Bogle painting of Piper Kenneth MacKay at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, with feather bonnet; Funeral car at the Duke of Wellington’s funeral with feathers, 1852; Advertisements for ostrich feathers in the Millinery Trade Review, vol. 30, 1905; A selection of feathers from Alexander Paul’s The Practical Ostrich Feather Dyer (1888); and Faith Bacon posing with her ostrich feather fans.

All image are copyrighted (c) Roosevelt Island Historical Society unless otherwise indicated
THIS PUBLICATION FUNDED BY DISCRETIONARY FUNDS FROM CITY COUNCIL MEMBER JULIE MENIN & ROOSEVELT ISLAND OPERATING CORPORATION PUBLIC PURPOSE FUNDS.

Copyright © 2026 Roosevelt Island Historical Society, All rights reserved.Our mailing address is:
rooseveltislandhistory@gmail.com

Apr

1

Wednesday, April 1, 2026 – Step Inside: Townhouses with a Twist!

By admin

It is Not an April Fool Joke

Fake BuildingsThat

Have Interesting Interiors

Fake Townhouses in NYC, Paris, London and Toronto

Infrastructure is an inevitable part of urban living. Subways and tunnels need ventilation, but the question is often–how to keep these functional spaces contained and away from the public eye? While many subway substations have been gutted and turned into apartments in New York City, other ventilation buildings have been concealed as residential townhouses. Here’s a roundup of these clever pieces of faux architecture in NYC, Paris, London, and Toronto:

Everyday people in Mott Haven in the Bronx walk around and see these townhouses, but never see anyone go in or out. They must wonder who lives inside: Why are there never any open windows? Is this the first sign of gentrification to hit the Bronx? The answer to all those questions, ridiculous or otherwise, is that it is not a series of townhouses at all, but a substation run by Con Edison made to look like a small gated community.

Made to look like townhouses to appeal to the residents who were not happy with a substation being built in their neighborhood, Scouting NY reports that the substation was constructed in 2008 to meet energy needs for the neighborhood. It is one of many that Con Edison will be building around the city, due to the rise of commercial and residential buildings over the last decade. 

ventilation plant under construction in November 2015.

In 2011, the MTA proposed several designs for a facade to hide a future emergency ventilation plant at Mulry Square on Seventh Avenue and Greenwich Avenue, a famous plot of land known for its 9/11 memorial tiles. The proposals faced vigorous opposition from community groups, local politicians, and the Landmarks Preservation Commission, who deemed that a floating, “faux historic” facade was the wrong approach. The design went through many iterations since 2007, including a living wall, a concrete modern design, and some bland faux brick proposals. The structure was completed in 2016.

Strecker Memorial Laboratory in 2011

This stone structure was built in 1892 as a laboratory for the lost Charity Hospital on Roosevelt Island. Until 1958, it was used by scientists to conduct pathological and bacteriological work. After experiments ceased, the lab building fell into disrepair, but it did earn New York City landmark status from the Landmarks Preservation Commission in 1976. In the 1990s, it was purchased by the City’s transit authority and converted into a power substation that helps power subway lines.

International Fake Townhouses:

1. Paris Ventilation Chimney in Fake Haussmann BuildingIn the 10th arrondissement of Paris, on rue la Fayette, the windows are always dark on this Haussmann-style building. The door is there, and the balconies look just like their neighbors’, but they are hiding something unusual behind them. It turns out the façade is only a front with no building behind it. 145 rue la Fayette is a fake building hiding a ventilation chimney for the Paris métro.

Toronto Hydro’s Fake Houses
Canadian Utility company, Toronto Hydro has taken a more suburban approach, though no less historical, putting substations into what appear to be single family homes. There are nearly 300 of these structures, like the Georgian-style one above at 555 Spadina Road, which form a nice catalogue of changing architectural preferences over the last decades from neo-Georgian to Victorian to Art Deco to Modern. The only sign of something afoot is the warning sign on the door, the plaque to the left of the front door which made by the Toronto Hydro Corporation in dedciation ot one of its board of directors, L. Ross Cullingworth.
23-24 Leinster Gardens in London

Sladen (Right) Photo by Z22, Both via Wikimedia Commons

In London, at 23-24 Leinster Gardens, there is a little secret. The facade, which matches with the rest of the block (except for the perpetually gray windows) is the front to an empty lot. The original buildings were demolished to build the London Tube in 1863 and used in action as a ventilation location for steam produced by the locomotives. In the back however, you can still see the tube tracks of the Metropolitan Line.

All image are copyrighted (c) Roosevelt Island Historical Society unless otherwise indicated
THIS PUBLICATION FUNDED BY DISCRETIONARY FUNDS FROM CITY COUNCIL MEMBER JULIE MENIN & ROOSEVELT ISLAND OPERATING CORPORATION PUBLIC PURPOSE FUNDS.

Copyright © 2026 Roosevelt Island Historical Society, All rights reserved.Our mailing address is:
rooseveltislandhistory@gmail.com